FIXING
Spread the adhesive with a 10mm notched trowel. Do not spot fix or soak tiles. Spread only one square metre at a time. Press tiles firmly into the adhesive bed. Do not fix tiles with tight joints. A guide for gaps between tiles is:
- Internal tiles 2 to 4 mm;
- External tiles 4 to 8mm;
- Quarry tiles 8 to 12mm.
The tiles are pressed firmly into the adhesive bed. There must be no voids beneath the tiles. The tiles may be adjusted to maintain true, even joint lines. Complete the section up to the nearest full tile to the walls.
CUTTING THE TILES
Leave all cuts to near end of project and hire one of our tile cutters for a professional job.
GROUTING (FILLING THE TILE JOINTS)
Grouting the joints can commence as soon as the tiles are rigid and cannot be disturbed. Kemgrout is recommended for filling the joints. Work the grout into the joints using a squeegee or sponge. Remove the surplus grout from the tiles using a sponge before is dries. Finally, polish with a soft cloth. When grouting over a flexing floor use Primer and Grout Additive in place of water.
WALL TILES
PREPARATION OF WALLS
Wall surfaces must be level, firm and rigid. Make sure the surface to be tiled is clean, free from dust, oil, grease, etc. Plasterboard and cement sheets should be primed with Primer prior to tiling.
- Level Base: It is most important to select a level base for tiling. If tiling is to commence at floor level then nail a horizontal batten with its straight edge uppermost one tile width above the lowest point of the wall. Use a spirit level to ensure that the batten is level.
- True Vertical: At the centre of the wall to be tiled establish a true vertical line with the aid of a plumb line or spirit level and mark it to the wall. Place a row of tiles against the horizontal batten and then make necessary adjustments so that equal cuts in the tiling are made in the corners. The plumb line is the re-positioned at the centre. Tile from the center line outwards ensuring that the tiles are positioned correctly.
FIXING
Using the straight edge of a notched trowel, spread approximately one square metre of adhesive on the wall. In a horizontal direction notch the adhesive with a 6mm notched trowel. Press the dry tiles into the ribs of adhesive ensuring that the whole of the back of the tile is in good contact with the adhesive.
Do not spot fix or soak tiles. Most tiles have spacer lugs which automatically position them. A 1.5 mm space should be left between tiles (the thickness of a match stick) without spacer lugs.
CUTTING THE TILES
If it is necessary to cut a tile use this simple method. Mark the glazed surface, place a rule or straight edge along the line and firmly score the surface with a glass cutter. Place a match stick under the tile in line with the cut and press down firmly on both sides; a clean break will result. The scored tile can also be broken by pressing down against a table edge.
To cut half circles, scratch the shape on the glaze with a glass cutter then nip off very small pieces with a sharp cutter then nip off very small pieces with a sharp pair of pincers until the correct fit is achieved. Hold the tile as closely as possible to where the cut is being made, smooth off sharp edges with a tile file.
GROUTING (FILLING THE TILE JOINTS)
Wait until the adhesive has set (usually the next day) before grouting. Mix the grout with water to a thick paste consistency. Let it stand for 10 minutes and remix, but do not add extra water. Work the mixture thoroughly into all joints with a rubber squeegee or similar material, in diagonal motions rather than horizontal or vertical. Wash off excessive grout with a minimum amount of water and a soft sponge.
The small amount of grout left on the tiles should be left until the grout in the joint dries and then wiped off with a dry rag. The last process will also polish the tiles to give a gleaming finish to the job.
